The electronic parts

There are a couple of parts necessary for the electronics of an electronic skateboard. But the good part is you can use standard RC car electronics. (or your can push it further with arduino blue tooth controllers and custom electronics if you’ve got experience in that field)

  • A brushless motor (I’ll leave this to its own blog but the one thing to remember is you want a low kv motor less than 300 the lower the better)
  • Electronic Speed Control (ESC) this tells the motor what to do
  • Transmitter (thing you hold in your hand) and receiver (small little thing that connects to the speed controller)
  • Batteries
  • Battery charger (you need a special charger)
  • Cable connectors (maybe an antispark so you don’t get freakout when connecting the batteries)

Transmitter and Receiver

Lets start with the easy stuff. Any RC controller will do. You’ll only be using the one channel to control the speed.  Hence a cheap number will do. this one has rechargeable batteries or

Electronic speed controller

You need a speed controller that can handle very high amps  (150amps). I blew up my first one which was this: HobbyKing Red Brick 125A ESC  and since moved up to a 150amp, 1/8 scale car esc from hobbyking. here. They don’t see to be selling it on hobbyking at the moment. It seems to be holding up well for the few people I know who use it.


Most people are using LiPo batteries. They hold a tremendoes amount of power. The only draw back is they can be “explody” if not treated well. By that I mean they’re over charger not using a proper charger or you cut into the side of the battery casing. Do some googling about it but I think they’re pretty safe. The alternative is LiFePo4. When looking at batteries (easiest place to buy is you’ll see the following numbers. Here is what they mean:

  • mAh = how long it will give up the power for.
  • C = is how quickly it can give off the power.
  • V = voltage. That’s pretty straight forward.

Now the choice comes up to you budget but what you’re looking for is 2 x  3 cell batteries (they run at 11.1volts) and wire them into series making 22.2 volts). 2 x 3 cells as opposed to 1 x 6 cell so you have enough clearance between the boattom of the board and the road the board has clearance.  Here is a nice video about wiring in series


Make sure you get a proper balance charger for your LiPo. Once again I’d try an appropriate charger from hobbyking.


The ESC doesn’t come with connectors so your going to need to buy some appropraite connectors also. You’re going to need to wire the batteries in series so you’ll need a soldering iron and some more connectors.


To be continues


19 responses to “The electronic parts

  1. Pingback: Pages | How to make an electric skateboard·

  2. Hi Over and Out, how the HK 150 A ESC is doing ? did you made any changes on it’s programming or your running it as it came out of the box ?… my Red Brick 125 A just went “puff” … looking for a new ESC, just want to check if this 150A is reliable.

  3. Hi! I was wondering if someone has been trying to use an arduino and a wii nunchuck as a controller. I’ve been working on this but I get stuck, the coding is complicated although one guy send it to me, but there are many kind of things to calibrate. If someone can upload a tutorial it would be great. I have seen Manta’s post in endless sphere, it helped but it would be awesome to have a clear video explaining!
    Congrats on the blog its great!

  4. Hi, I just finished soldering all the pullet connectors on the esc but when I plug every thing in and turn it on I hear a click that comes from the motor but nothing happens when I use the throttle. A moment ago i tried turning it on again and after a few seconds the motor twitched and beeped a couple of times but nothing happened after that. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I have to do to make it work properly?

  5. Hello, I’m new to this and an looking for some help. Why do you need a controller that handles so much current? The first motor on your list only draws 70a max. Furthermore if you are only supplying it with about 24v won’t the current draw be even less?


    • Technically speaking your correct but the motor under load is drawing a shit load more current. (Probably not great for the motor either). Anyway the peak current is massive on acceleration. I haven’t put a watt meter in mine but there are some videos of people who have if you do some googling. PS my first ESC died

      • Cool, thanks for the info. I did a bit more research and I think I found the culprit for high current at starting. With out the motor spinning there is no back emf acting as resistance and opposing the current. Take your voltage and divide it by the very small resistance of your windings and you get your peak theoretical current… It will be very high.

  6. How long does a 5000 mAh battery usually last with one of these motors? Using 80A (maybe high?) as the average current I only calculate 3.75 minutes of use. What is everyone else seeing as far as
    real world numbers?


    • Hmmm, after a little research I found people are reporting an average current draw more like 5-8 amps, I guess my original estimate was way off. That equates to 37.5 – 60 minutes run time. That sounds like a bit more fun! My question remains, what kind of real world numbers are you guys getting?

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